Review: Maroma, A Belmond Hotel, Riviera Maya: First In

Why book?

This property, which has just gone through a major renovation, has managed to transform itself into something entirely fresh while still keeping its soul, thanks to the tremendous attention to detail put into its design, service, and food. It’s a beach retreat designed for complete decompression, but there won’t be a moment when you aren’t reminded that you’re on the Yucatán.

Set the scene

Over the past decade or so, this strip of the Yucatán between Cancun and Tulum has become chock-a-block with a mishmash of resorts that tend to sit shoulder to shoulder. But it’s easy to forget that once you turn off the main highway for Maroma. Winding through thick mangroves (the property sits on 200 acres of jungle) along a modest gravel road, you might glimpse a coati lumbering past, or if it’s early enough in the morning, a spider monkey swinging from the trees, before reaching the entrance to this 72-room hotel: a whitewashed arch soundtracked by the song of the Yucatán Jay and other tropical birds native to the region. Once checked in (via iPad by your personal host) you’ll quickly fall into the rhythm of the place, wafting from pool to beach to lunch and back again before cocktail hour at Freddy’s Bar. The crowd here is what you would expect from a Belmond property: affluent and design-minded travelers who expect an unparalleled attention to detail, from the poolside service to the story behind the handwoven textiles hanging in a suite—and Maroma delivers.

The backstory

Thirty miles south of Cancun, Maroma first opened in 1995, establishing itself as a legacy property within a region that one might argue is now over-saturated with resorts. It closed its doors a couple years ago to undergo a top-to-toe renovation (the first in Belmond’s portfolio of North American properties), resulting in a transformation that leans heavily on Mayan culture—the curved stucco buildings are aligned to Mayan geometry—and wider Mexican craftsmanship, with a visible focus on sustainability. Almost every detail of the restoration, overseen by interior designer Tara Bernerd, has prioritized Mexican makers and local artisans (80 percent of the property’s furnishings and objects were made in Mexico), from the hand-painted Saltillo floor tiles and woven wall hangings, to the cotton ‘manta’ kaftans left in rooms for guests to slip into. As of August, Maroma officially begins to accommodate guests again following a soft opening, and those familiar with the property will recognize many of the same staff, many of whom possess an encyclopedic knowledge of the hotel and wider region.

The rooms

One of the fruits of Maroma’s reimagining is the addition of 10 waterfront suites, but all 72 rooms have been completely redone according to Bernard’s vision. I stayed in an oceanview suite, which was so spacious I had terraces that overlooked the Caribbean Sea on one side and the tree-lined swimming pool on the other. In addition to those aforementioned Saltillo tiles, the bedroom, bathroom, dressing room, and living areas were all packed with decor that was made in Mexico: a beautiful straw fan that I was encouraged to take home with me; patterned woven baskets to provide pops of color; a ceramic flask containing mezcal for a cheeky nitecap; tasseled pillows done up with local textiles in shades of marigold, navy, and cream. The mini bar—located inside a gorgeous wooden cabinet—was filled with local spirits like pox, a Mayan liquor made of corn, sugar cane, and wheat, and Mayalen Guerrero mezcal in a bottle so beautiful I was tempted to sneak it back in my suitcase. The bathroom incorporated even more of the hand-painted tilework, and had both a walk-in shower and deep tub; meanwhile the ample closet space in the dressing room contained woven sandals and linen robes as well those kaftans. The latter was made by Collectiva Concepción, a Mexico City brand that seeks to support artisans in rural communities and preserve many of Mexico’s textile traditions. Rates start at $1,355 per night.

Food and drink

There are two restaurants on site here: Woodend by Curtis Stone, which features meat- and- seafood-heavy small plates from the namesake Australian chef, almost all of which is prepared over an open fire (the steak with chimichurri and butter-soft cod are the stars of the show, with the tuna crudo following up as a close second); and Casa Mayor, a new spot from Mexican-born chef Daniel Camacho that incorporates a slew of ingredients from the Yucatán peninsula—ingredients so fresh that the wood-fired octopus and beef tablitas, while both delicious, were overshadowed by the blissfully fresh tomato salad I had at dinner one night. Casa Mayor is also where breakfast is served: think huevos rancheros and chilaquiles smothered in green or red salsa, as well as heapings of freshly-baked bread and local fruits. Another culinary highlight? The tortilla-making class that’s offered to guests, where Camacho will walk you through the three methods behind corn tortillas, which you can then gobble up with a variety of slow-cooked toppings from the kitchen.

The spa

The Guerlain spa had yet to open when I stayed, but it promises a menu that nods to healing practices and rituals based on Mayan traditions, as well as meditation workshops and yoga classes. One thing that was available: a honey-based massage treatment using Guerlain products that was as decadent as it sounds (albeit a touch too long for me, at two hours).

The service

I’d expected to encounter a teething problem or two, given the property was only just reopening, but my experience truly went without a hitch. Everyone was so kind and thoughtful—Ivan, Oliver, Julio, and Eric, especially—and also just a lot of fun, taking note of my taste for mezcal (so much so that an impromptu mezcal tasting was set up for me on the beach) and telling me facts about the hotel (such as how the renovation revealed that some of the whitewashed walls had been packed with dried palm leaves). My personal host, Sabrina, was always available via WhatsApp, which meant that she was on hand when I couldn’t figure out how to turn the air conditioning back on in my suite, or remember the time of a dinner reservation—yes, I was sun tired. Everyone I encountered seemed to have that magical knack of anticipating whatever it was I might need, before I realized it.

Eco effort

The property meets all the sustainability standards one has come to expect from a luxury hotel in 2023—reusable containers for things like sunscreen and mosquito repellant; glass water bottles beside the bed; polite notes suggesting guests reuse their towels—but it’s the focus on keeping things local that’s striking here. Not only does doing so create a far more compelling design story and aesthetic, as well as far more interesting food menus, but it puts money back into the communities that live in a region that, for better or worse, relies so heavily on tourism.

Anything left to mention? Maroma offers a handful of experiences both on and off the property, including that tortilla-making class (a must!). One major highlight, of which there were many, was the excursion to a cenote about a 30-minute drive away. Having swam in a couple of them in and around Tulum in the past I thought I knew what to expect, but I was absolutely blown away—all thanks to my guide, Anna, with 4World Expeditions. Navigating a network of caves together, we swam in tranquil subterranean pools as bats swooped above our heads, and talked about the Mayan history connected to the natural phenomena. It’s not for the claustrophobic, but if you can handle swimming through small spaces (and on occasion, really small), it’s simply unmissable.