Just an hour away from Rwanda’s famed gorilla trekking and nestled amongst inactive volcanoes lies a little-visited but spectacular sight: the country’s Twin Lakes. Early in the morning, small islands on Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo glow white against velvety blue water as fishermen begin their day. Then, when the afternoon sun burns away the mist, verdant green hills appear.
Despite the area’s beauty, there were few accommodation options and activity offerings before the coronavirus pandemic. Now, change is finding its way to the region: Scenic boat trips, kayaking excursions, bike rides, and hikes are all on offer. The area is also now hosting Rwanda’s creative core outside of Kigali: An artist residence, gallery, and vegan meditation retreat overlook the volcanic shores. And soon, a James Beard-award winning chef with a restaurant in the capital city of Kigali will bring a restaurant to Lake Ruhondo, as well as an accompanying culinary institute. A number of well-equipped guesthouses and new roads have sprung up over the last few years. And the famed Virunga Lodge, a stalwart luxury lodge that has been around for decades, now offers even more activities focusing on the lakes, like lakeside hikes and boat trips.
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Because Rwanda hosts dozens of high profile conferences every year, new roads are built almost weekly, and it feels like country-wide growth is earth-shatteringly quick, activity at the Twin Lakes stands in beautiful contrast: things are slower, activities in the area are deliberate and serene, and the views are sweeping and half of the joy. Though the lakes are definitely off the beaten path and tourism infrastructure is limited, visiting now is more rewarding than ever—and opportunities for travel are only growing.
Getting to (and around) the Twin Lakes
Fly into Kigali International Airport, which offers nonstop flights from London, Istanbul, Brussels, and Amsterdam. RwandAir, the country’s national airline, has promised direct flights from New York with a refueling stopover in Accra, Ghana, to begin soon as well. Upon arrival, consider staying a night in Kigali to get your bearings and explore the dynamic city. If you plan to do gorilla trekking about an hour away, in addition to the lakes or other stops in Rwanda, book your transportation through a tour agency or private transfer service.
If you want to explore the lakes and the surrounding Musanze region by yourself, rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle from Europcar Rwanda. Activities on the lakes are located nearby physically, but take time to travel between due to the ever-winding roads. Plus, the road trip around the lakes is a significant part of the adventure itself; there's a stunning viewpoint every few minutes, from the sloping banana groves that cover the hills to the towering Muhabura volcano. Depending on your first destination in the area, plan to spend between one and a half to three and half hours driving from Kigali. Public buses to Musanze also leave Kigali’s largest bus terminal, Nyabugogo, every hour, but transporting yourself around the lakes without a car also requires a lot of motorcycles and local taxis.
The best things to do in Rwanda beyond gorilla trekking
At the Twin Lakes, it’s all about immersing yourself in the views and a slower pace of life. Bring a book and relax with the view from a lodge or guest house overlooking the water. On the creative side, spend time at Ikinyugunyugu, a soon-to-open gallery and artist residency started by Cedric Mizero, one of Rwanda’s most celebrated artists. Located just down the road from Byiza Lodge facing Lake Burera, Mizero used local materials to build what looks like a nest burrowed into the surrounding forest. The immersive gallery is expected to open in the next month, and there are already visiting artists’ exhibits. On the day I visited, a fashion shoot for Asantii, a pan-African fashion company with stores in Kigali, London, and Johannesburg was taking place. Around the property, Mizero’s art pops out: the woven baskets he designed to cover an entire car; hundred-year-old pots ready to be arranged in the woods; a eucalyptus tunnel that leads to a view of Lake Burera, with a shape reminiscent of the Agaseke, a traditional Rwandan basket. “I don’t want the Twin Lakes to become like Kigali, I want it to stay the twin lakes—more sustainable, simple,” Mizero told me on a recent visit.
On Lake Ruhondo, Dieuveil Malonga is getting ready to open his second restaurant and culinary institute. Known for his Kigali restaurant, Meza Malonga, the chef creates intricate meals that can’t be found anywhere else in the country. Think juicy pineapple ceviche with herbs, tomato sorghum bread, tender Rwandan beef with local butter, and coconut-crusted shrimp from Kenya. Musanze and the Twin Lakes inspired the opening of his first restaurant; and he already sources many of his ingredients from farms in the area, known for some of the best agriculture in the country due to the rich volcanic soil. “It’s the climate, the ecosystem, the soil,” Malonga told me. “We don’t use chemicals on the farm. It’s proper agriculture.”
For the adventurous, many activities on the Twin Lakes are physical. To see the lake from every angle, go on a bike trip around the shores with Rwandan Adventures. Driving around the lake is just as rewarding: It’s like California’s Pacific Coast Highway but on a dirt road and with arguably better views – and the drive around Lake Burera’s northern shore is particularly spectacular. Guesthouses can connect you with local boats, where rides around the lake and in between islands cost about $17 an hour. Kingfisher Journeys offers kayaking trips, and walking trails can be found almost everywhere you look.
Where to stay in the Twin Lakes
There’s something for everyone: Dozens of guesthouses, campsites, and glamping opportunities have sprung up at the Twin Lakes over the last few years.
The area’s one luxury offering, Virunga Lodge, quite literally towers over the rest. Located on one of the highest hills in the area, the lodge's views include both twin lakes and are framed by three big volcanoes: Muhabura, Sabyinyo, and Gahinga. The property went through a small refurbishment during the pandemic, and it’s better than ever: eat dinner made from local ingredients with other guests at the lodge’s intimate restaurant, unwind in the spa’s newly-built sauna, read a book by the fire in the main room (or ask your personal butler to set up a fire in your own room before bed), or just stroll around the grounds admiring the views. You can’t escape the views if you try: even showers in the rooms host views of the Twin Lakes or surrounding volcanoes, and all 10 rooms have private porches. And though the lodge has been open since 2004, their focus on the lakes is new: they offer a guided three-hour hike to the lakes, and can connect guests with boat operators and kayaking trip leaders.
If you don’t mind a slightly longer journey in the morning, consider staying at the Twin Lakes for gorilla trekking. Though it’s an hour's drive from the lodge to the gorillas, guests based at Virunga Lodge can go trekking and then spend an extra few days enjoying the Twin Lakes.
At Yoyuu, the all-inclusive vegan meditation retreat, spectacular views of Lake Ruhondo are framed by rooms and spaces created with meditation in mind. Stark cement walls mix with dark wood, soft greenery, and white cushions—it looks like your most design-oriented friend’s apartment. “It’s a sense when you’re in this area,” Umuliza told me, while describing the reason for the retreat’s location on the lakes. “You breathe deeper. There’s something very ancestral in this place.” Made even better by the fact that it’s located less than two hours from Kigali, guests are invited to book via retreat openings posted on Instagram. Multiple dates are offered each month, and during their reservation process guests are asked to pay 60,000 Rwandan francs (approximately $50 USD) a night to cover costs—or what they can give to the space in exchange for their stay, if not monetary. While booking, guests are also asked to describe their relationship with nature. In addition to partaking in daily meditation, guests at the retreat can also garden, go on walks, do yoga, and have personalized one-on-one sessions with Rita Umuliza, Yoyuu’s founder, or a visiting practitioner.
Byiza Lodge, a guesthouse located almost exactly in between Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo, has some of the most expansive views in the area. Ideal for families, multiple well-decorated terraces overlook the lakes and surrounding towns and biking trips stop by the lodge frequently. Rooms are $200 a night, and include dinner, breakfast, and lake views. Though camping was available on the property starting in 2017, the rooms were finished in 2022. The rooms are basic, but the food is excellent: for dinner there's marinated beef brochettes, fish curries, and local vegetables. At breakfast, enjoy homemade passionfruit juice and shakshuka.
There are also a number of other recommended small guesthouses and camping options in the area, including Frama Eco-Lodge, Twin Lakes Recreational Island, My Hill Eco Lodge, and Ruhondo Beach Resort. Upmarket Airbnbs are even available now: the well-equipped My Writer’s Patch just opened, and is perfect for self-catering small groups.
