Although the legend of Dionysus—a Greek deity responsible for wine and other pleasurable pursuits—is centuries old, the mythological figure is still influencing modern-day Greece. The nation’s indigenous grapes and unique terroir create one of the world’s most exciting wine-producing countries, but given Greece’s vast and mountainous geography it would take as much time to visit all the different regions as it did to build the Parthenon.
The vibrant capital of Athens, however, condenses this vast viticultural landscape into a wine scene beckoning you to dive into the world of Greek wine. In 2008, the country’s banking crisis gave rise to wine bar culture; wines by the glass and small bites became a more economical way to go out and socialize. “With the development of the wine bars was also a development in the wine culture of our country,” says Aris Sklavenitis, co-owner and head sommelier at Oinoscent. “The wine bars make wine easily accessible and allow customers to try different glasses of wine. It’s a way to educate people.”
Today, the format has different permutations, from lively neighborhood hangs to culinary-focused “wine restaurants.” Many places are conveniently located near each other in the city center, particularly in the parliament-adjacent Syntagma neighborhood—but Sklavenitis hypothesizes that within the next few years the boom will continue outward: “We will have more wine bars outside of the historical center and also more and more on the islands.”
As a wine writer, I find there’s no better way to learn about a place when I’m traveling than to pull up a stool at a wine bar, surrender myself to the sommelier’s knowledge, and let my neighbors’ conversations wash over me. Here are the best places to drink and learn about Greece’s plethora of wine in Athens, so you can choose which region to follow the grapes to next.
An OG in the Athens wine scene: Oinoscent
Oinoscent claims to be Athen’s first wine bar, and 15 years after it opened, it’s still one of the most dynamic spots around. In 2012 it moved across the street and into bigger digs, where laughter from the sidewalk patio spills out onto the street. Inside, the high-ceilinged, slate-gray space manages to feel both airy and cozy at the same time. A rotating, 50-glass wine list highlights the diverse offerings of Greece, such as Agioritiko from Nemea, the flagship red wine from producer Gai’a, or the winery’s Assyrtiko from Santorini—a textbook example of this famously crisp white grape.
Food gets equal amounts of attention. In 2018, chef John Tsikoudakis came on board to expand the menu. Sure, you could just nibble on the excellent housemade bread and charcuterie, but then you’d be missing out on perfectly grilled calamari, or an inspired take on a Waldorf salad, served with nori-crusted tuna.
After your meal, ask nicely and perhaps someone will give you a tour of the cellar that houses nearly 1,000 selections; anything from aged Bordeaux to rare bottles from top Greek producers. During the pandemic Oinoscent turned into a bottle shop, and it’s still possible to buy a few to bring home.
A lively, natural-wine-focused spot: Heteroclito
Perhaps it’s the glowing neon signs on the facade, or maybe it’s the perpetually crowded sidewalk cafe tables, but this corner space in Syntagma beckons with the promise of a good time. Organic, low-intervention wines produced with minimal sulfites dominate the list. Words like ‘pet-nat’ will jump out amongst the names of indigenous varieties. Sommeliers are happy to introduce you to their favorites; a Robola from Gentilini in Kefalonia, for example, is a saline-driven, high-acid white, and a refreshing counterpoint to summer’s heat. Food-wise, the menu leans snacky: meats, cheeses, and a limited number of small plates from nearby Levantine restaurant Feyrouz are available.
For an encyclopedic wine list: Vintage Wine Bar and Bistro
Settle into one of Vintage’s brown leather chairs and get cozy with the novel-length wine list. This wine bistro, as it bills itself, boasts selections from around the world, but you’ll want to hone in on the Greek wines. Grouped geographically, it illustrates the widespread nature of Greek viticulture. But even more impressive is the number of back vintages, both by the glass, (such as a 2015 Thrapsathiri/Vilana blend from boutique producer Ktima Oikonomou in Sitia in Crete) and by the bottle (we spotted 2014 -2017 vintages of Vidiano, a variety that’s poised to be Crete’s signature white grape, from renowned estate Douloufakis.)
I’m sure we weren’t the first slightly tipsy tourists to take photos with the map of New York City that hung on the wall behind us; luckily, the staff didn’t seem to mind. Instead, they ferried a plate of ceviche with hummus and crispy chickpeas to our table, which we wiped clean with the accompanying pita bread.
A red-wine lover's paradise: By the Glass
With 200 wines by the glass to try, it’s easy to understand how this Syntagma wine bar got its name. Enter through the marble-floored arcade to reach the entrance to the high-ceilinged space. Or, in warmer months, cross the street to Rallou Manou Square. There, behind an old stone church, you’ll find a large outdoor seating area, which is presided over by a stone statue paying homage to the unknown architect. Along with indigenous Greek varieties (try the Moschofilero from Boutari, a floral white wine), the list highlights international grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, being grown in Greek terroir. There’s also a separate reserve list with quite a number of older vintages, especially red wines such as Xinomavro.
Given the focus on reds, the menu reads hearty: there are several cuts of steak served with roasted or mashed potatoes. But mushrooms also figure prominently into dishes, a worthy vegetable alternative to meat to pair with a bold wine.
Something cozy: Materia Prima
After a few hours of fighting crowds at the Acropolis, take a 15-minute walk to the neighborhood of Koukaki and Materia Prima wine bar. The comfortable space, with pillows on the purple upholstered banquettes, feels like a well-appointed living room. “Materia Prima,” or, raw material, is the ethos for both wine and food. Natural and low-intervention wines take center stage, such as a chilled and effervescent Xinomavro Piquette from Kamara Estate in Thessaloniki. You can either get half or full-glass pours; do the former and build your own flight of wines. Shareable plates change frequently to reflect what’s in season. The cheery red pop of tomatoes, combined with pickled grapes and almonds, is the perfect antidote to summer’s sweltering heat. Like Oinoscent, Materia Prima has a retail arm to its business and you can buy bottles from their cellar to go.
For aperitivo, too: Wine With Eleni
It’s hard to believe this low-key and unpretentious spot is less than a ten-minute walk from the Acropolis and the site’s surrounding tourist venues. The bar itself is rather small and narrow, so most of the seating is in a shaded courtyard out front. Neighborhood regulars sip on various wines while the dogs at their feet keep a wary eye on the cats that roam freely throughout Athens.
Owner Eleni Kefalopoulou is also a wine journalist and author, and she brings her discoveries to the short but curated list. ‘F by Foivos’ from producer Foivos Papastratis in Evia is a house favorite. A blend of Assyrtiko and Muscat, it is aromatic and slightly floral—perfect for the garden setting. There’s not much food to speak of, but it’s an ideal spot to grab an aperitif and recharge after an afternoon of sightseeing.
